Hard luck and hard boiled – Ostrich Eggs in Northland

I knew the far North has Kauri trees and beautiful beaches, but organic ostriches? I’d read about a couple of suppliers in an organics magazine and it all sounded very promising.

After numerous phone calls to disconnected phone numbers my sister-in-law (who appears to know everyone in Northland), tracked down the remains of the once aspiring ostrich industry – one bird. In a blip of a place named Kareponia, I met Kerry Hay who with his wife Lilac once owned a thriving ostrich egg hatchery.

Kerry’s story unravelled the classic boom and bust cycle that accompanied the establishment of Ostrich farming in Northland. After exiting the hatchery business in 2005 he sent 29 of his 30 breeding hens off to Taranaki.  As we sat and chatted the only bird that didn’t make the trip – B2 - began aggressively checking out my camera.

B2 escaped the final journey because she had a damaged wing. Stomping around the paddock she didn’t look too happy with my presence but settled down once she saw the camera was giving her no harm.

Kerry and Lilac now fatten up cattle on their land, a far less risky enterprise.

On departing the farm I was very generously presented with a freshly laid egg.

We carefully drove the egg home to Wellington and after some research boiled it for 90mins.  I was hoping for a slightly soft boiled finish. Once the egg was out of the pot I tried using a small knife to pry the top off gently, not wanting yellow yolk pouring out.

But on reaching the yolk it was hard boiled.  So I attacked it with more force. Out came a larger knife, hand saw, screwdriver and a hammer but it was the hacksaw that was most effective.

Ostrich B2

Ostrich B2

Ostrich egg in a pot

Tools for the job

Hard boiled ostrich egg

Oscar with ostrich egg

Rakiraki Market before Cyclone

I had the chance to photograph Rakiraki Market working with UN Women in Fiji. Since then it has been flooded (the day after I was there) and now has been severely impacted by Cyclone Winston.  The vendors were very kind and friendly considering I was not there to purchase their produce. The marketplace has no doubt been damaged but worse will be the crops from which the vendors make their income. As seen in Vanuatu, it takes some growers the best part of a year before they get back to similar levels of crops post cyclone.

Any support for Rakiraki and Fiji is sure to be appreciated.

 

Vanilla Pioneer departs Vanuatu

After 28 yrs of Vanilla production in Vanuatu Pierro Bianchessi has left for Italy, his homeland. An organic chemist, Bianchessi arrived in Vanuatu in 1987 and found the perfect climate for growing vanilla. He established Venui Vanilla and by 1991 demand had increased beyond what he could produce on his own land. Growers were contracted and trained from northern islands in Vanuatu, processing 2000-2500 tons of vanilla each year at the peak of production. Certified organic from 1997, Pierro marketed the vanilla himself at food shows in Europe, NZ , Australia and New Caledonia. Venui Vanilla quickly became Vanuatu’s premiere artisan food producer.

Vanilla needs a dry coolish winter of 7-8 weeks for successful pollination and although this was possible initially the amount of vanilla being processed has now dropped to 2-300kg per year. Bianchessi states this is a direct result of climate change.

Venui Vanilla now also produces peppercorns, turmeric, chillies and ginger and to reflect this has been rebranded Venui Vanilla - Spices of Vanuatu. Venui would have to process five times the amount of peppercorns to replace the value of the declining vanilla crop according to Bianchessi.

New Zealand has strong links with Venui. An Auckland based graphic designer created the cool looking soft packaging and New Zealand’s BioGro Organic Certification was achieved in 2013. This certification also covers the 200 small farmers who supply the company.

A new manager has been found and the company has been sold to LCM, a very established grocery business based in Luganville. A new cold pressed centrifugal coconut oil processing facility is being built as a result of the new investment.

Although departing, Bianchessi was optimistic the organic ethos of Venui will continue. He believes Vanuatu has a good future with food production as it remains naturally organic, the last of the Pacific Islands to be in this state.

 

Sorting Ginger

Ginger drying

Chilies and tamarind drying

Venui Vanilla in Vanuatu

Boxes of spices ready to export

Venui Vanilla retail outlet

Sorting Vanilla in Vanuatu

Sacks chillies in Vanuatu

Vanilla being stored in Vanuatu

Sacks of turmeric in Vanuatu

Pierro Bianchessi with bags of peppercorns in Vanuatu

Organic chilies drying in Vanuatu

Chilies drying in Vanuatu

Unloading trays of chilies to dry in Vanuatu

Portrait of Pierro Bianchessi in Vanuatu

Portrait of Pierro Bianchessi founder of Venui Vanilla

Distributing seeds post Cyclone Pam

Getting seeds back in the ground was an urgent need post Cyclone Pam. I was asked by UN Women to photograph one of the seed distribution events at Marobe Market in Efate. Being immersed among two hundred women patiently waiting for their allotment of seeds is something I will not forget in a hurry.

Every person given seeds had their name recorded one by one and Alice Kalo showed amazing patience and resilience to complete the job, writing each name by hand. Some of the seeds were handed out to individuals at the market while others decided to wait until getting home.

The allocation per person was 23 pumpkin seeds, 9 pawpaw seeds, 8 watermelon seeds, 30-40 sweetcorn seeds and approx 35 dwarf bean seeds.

 

Making Lap Lap in Vanuatu

Lap lap is a traditional Vanuatu dish wrapped in leaves and cooked above ground on hot stones. Mangaliliu Village has a strong heritage in making lap lap and this was seen when staying in the village recently.

Starting at 6 AM (photography in this light was a treat) the lap lap was made on Sunday morning by the women and children from the extended family for lunch following a session in Church.

With no fridge available two chickens were freshly slaughtered for the occasion and were plucked by the children. Aside from the lap lap faol seen here (chicken), other versions are dakdak (duck), fis (fish), mit (meat), taro, maniok (cassava), yam and banana. There are also regional variations.

 

GoodBuzz in Wainuiomata

Kombucha, booch and SCOBY are new words in my vocab after a visit to photograph the GoodBuzz soft drink factory in Wainuiomata. The GoodBuzz process combines sugar, tea and water (from the Te Puna Wai Ora artesian aquifer in Petone) with the SCOBY (symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast) and turns into an effervescent, healthy, non-alcoholic  drink.

In the short time GoodBuzz has been operating they already have  five kombucha brews in more than 60 cafes in Wellington, Christchurch, Hawkes Bay, New Plymouth and Nelson, and recently have been included in Auckland’s Nosh outlets.

The drinks come in five flavours - Origins, Green Jasmin, Lemon and Ginger, Jade Dew and Feijoia. A new brew made with coffee cherry (the outer red skin of  discarded coffee beans from  Go Bang in Petone)  with an amazing light apple flavour is coming soon.

Each  brew takes 8-10 days to ferment and another 7-10 days of bottle conditioning before heading out the door. The best before date is four months unchilled (a bonus when there is space restrictions in the fridge), and can be extended to nine months if refrigerated.

Another buzz emanating from the factory came from discovering owner Alex Campbell and I grew up in the same small Northland town – Kaikohe. This is where Alex’s first memories of kombucha came from – his grandmother Amy made what she called Manchurian Mushroom tea in the 1970’s. Kaikohe Kombucha - who would have thought?

 

 

 

Koshering Ruth Pretty's Kitchen

To be accepted as kosher, certain foods which are completely cooked by a non-Jew (bishul akum) may not be eaten, even if the foods are kosher and are cooked with kosher utensils. Ruth Pretty calls on a local Rabbi to sanction the food for the times she has catered Jewish events in Wellington (this was for a Bar Mitzvah). Foods that generally come under the category of bishul akum are:

  •  Foods that cannot be eaten raw, such as meat or grains. (This excludes foods that can be eaten either cooked or raw, such as apples or carrots.)

  •  Foods that are considered important, "fit to set upon a king's table." There are various opinions regarding what are considered "royal foods."

The key is for the Rabbi to participate in the cooking in a meaningful way in order to render the food kosher. If a non-Jew cooked the food alone, without Jewish participation, the food and utensils are not regarded as kosher.

These photos were taken with 35mm film and I can't help thinking they have a natural and organic feel, resonating well with the Koshering.

 

7 stands, 3 lights and a bagel | Murray Lloyd Photography

The saying photography is 90% “moving furniture” and 10% photography was proved when I was asked to photograph one pulled pork bagel for Wholly Bagels in Wellington. On location, at night, saw three lights, one background, two diffusers, two bounce boards and seven light stands in action. Pulled pork originated in the southern states of the US but seems to be everywhere now.

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Pulled pork bagel from Wholly Bagels in Wellington.

More to Maketu than Masterchef | Murray Lloyd Photography

It is no surprise Maketu produced the latest MasterChef winners, the town has food in its bones. Maketu was named after the origonal kumara growing fields in Hawaiki by Te Arawa when their canoe landed at the mouth of the Kaituna River in 1340. The river and estuary have been historically referred to as the "food bowl" of the Te Arawa. 400 years later the Robin White painting Fish and Chips, Maketu immortalised the local fish and chip shop. Not sure why the shop has not been given the Robin White treatment.

Maketu Pies carry on the food vibe. They distribute pies all over the North Island and have recently introduced a gourmet range called Sunday's Best. Their standard range is well regarded and includes a highly rated mussel pie.

Historically the estuary provided a diverse range of seafood including pipi, koterotero (sea-anenome), tuangi (cockles), flounder, titiko (mud snail), mussels,  pāua, pūpū, scallops, kukuroa (horse mussels) and fish. It seems appropriate the winners of MasterChef Karena and Kasey Bird are described as "seafood loving sisters"  and their signature dish is paua ravioli.

Photo of Robin White painting "fish and chips, Maketu".

Fish and chip shop in Maketu, New Zealand.

Maketu pies inside fridge.

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Portrait of man holding a Maketu pie in front of advertising design.

Italian Flavours in Paraparaumu | Murray Lloyd Photography

Basil grown from seed in full sunshine, Isle of Capri tomatoes freshly plucked from the garden and fresh buffalo mozzarella - Insalata Caprese -  It is quite simply one of the greatest pleasures of summer and is one of my favourite dishes . The flavours and textures work together brilliantly - here's to Italian food.

Fresh live clams from NZ to USA | Murray Lloyd Photography

Working every day of the year, the team at Dunedin's Southern Clams can have an average of 4.5 tonnes of clams ready for market in six hours. In winter the team in the water harvest by torchlight and even have waves crashing over them on occasions. Director Roger Belton started Southern Clams in the early 1980's after his French girlfriend took him to experience the French food culture. Eighty percent of the clams are exported, particulary to the east coast of the USA where the large Italian poplulation need them for Spagetti alle Vonglole. The remaining clams are sold domestically at restaurants, wholesalers and the New World and Pak n Save supermarkets.

Southern Clams take sustainability very seriously even investing in forestry in order to be carbon accountable. They have never harvested their full quota of clams and are contantly looking for new ways to reduce bycatch.

Southern clams barge loaded in mist.

loading up clam shells in Dunedin

I was just thankful my waders didn't leak.

Clam shells being returned to seafloor from boat.

Clam harvester being taken from boat.

Harvesting clams in Blueskin Bay

Harvesting clams in Blueskin Bay

Harvesting clams in Dunedin Harbour.

Portrait of Roger Belton, owner of Southern Clams, standing in sea.

Red bags of clams on seafloor

Southern Clams

Close up look at Blueskin Bay Clams.

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Harvesting clams at Blueskin Bay.

Loading sacks of clams in Blueskin Bay.

Loading sacks of clams in Blueskin Bay.

Freshly harvested clams on barge at Blueskin Bay, New Zealand

Fully loaded barge of fresh clams at Blueskin Bay.

Roger Belton, Managing Director at Southern Clams on small outboard boat.

Close up look at clam recruitment.

Clams at Blueskin Bay, New Zealand.

Clams being sorted in factory

Clams being shucked for chowder.

Whiteboard of clam sizes.

Sorting fresh clams for export

Sorting fresh clams for export

Bags of fresh clams ready for export.

7 whiskies, haggis , Wellington | Murray Lloyd Photography

Half a century of haggis history was piped into Wellington College’s Firth Hall to celebrate the final Regional Wines and Spirits whisky tasting of the year. Highly sought after tickets were only made available to regular whisky imbibers at Regionals’ events throughout the year. The Haggis was delivered with pomp and poetry before being served with mash and washed down with seven different whiskies. The recipe for the haggis originated at Tommy Jack’s Miramar butchery in the 1960’s and presently resides with the Island Bay butcher, Don Andrews. The whiskies were 10year old Ardberg, a Longrow Rundlets and a 2001 Kilderkins, a Bunnahabhain, Glendronach 1994, a Highland Park, a Longmore 2002 and a Bowmore aged 12 years.

Haggis cooking in pots on stovetop.

Haggis being held on tray.

Man holding ceremonial haggis knife

Haggis being piped in to Regional Wines whisky tasting.

Haggis being piped in to Regional Wines whisky tasting.

Haggis being piped in to Regional Wines whisky tasting.

Haggis being piped in to Regional Wines whisky tasting.

Haggis being piped in to Regional Wines whisky tasting.

crowd at whisky tasting in Wellington.

Man in kilt cutting open haggis.

Man in kilt with haggis.

Man in kilt pouring whisky.

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Close up photo of hand holding whisky

Crowd at whisky tasting.

Haggis

Close up view of haggis after being cat open.

People queuing for haggis and mash.

6 bottles of whisky lined up.