Chocolate tasting in Wellington

Most boutique chocolate companies tell more or less the same story; machinery sourced from all over he world (the older the better), small-scale farmers in exotic places, micro scale production and a vision/passion to make artisan chocolate from bean to bar. With this in mind, how does the average consumer make head or tail of the competition? A tasting is a great place to start. In a recent tasting with Jo Coffey, prior owner of Wellington's L'affair au Chocolat I tasted bars from Canada, Holland, Australia and the Philippines, which all used imported beans, and two locally produced bars from Vanuatu and Fiji. The tasting threw up some surprising results.

Without going into too much detail, the favourites were Gabriel 80% Chuao (Venezuela) and Sirene's Ecuador 70%; someone commented they could eat more of the Fijana 72% due to it's lack of intensity; the Aelan Chocolate from Vanuatu (made with Santo Criollo beans) competed on flavour but suffered from more than a hint of smoke. The least favoured were Indonesia's Pipilten range and Australia's Bahen & Co Brazil 70%.

Getting hold of these bars is not straight forward, some coming from friends (we supplied the two Pacific Island bars) and others from online distributors of which there are at least two based in NZ. Between them they stock some of the highest rated bars made. Amedei is arguably the world's best and is available at All about Chocolate, and very well regarded American brands Taza and Dick Taylor can be found among others at The Chocolate Bar

How good is good chocolate? We had a group of friends for lunch recently and had the chance to compare a bar of Grenada Chocolate Company's 60% organic nib with a favourite New Zealand brand's 'boutique' range. Despite being stored in a fridge for nearly a year and looking much the worse for wear, the Granada chocolate left the competition in the dust and was ecstatically and unanimously praised.

On another occasion, a friend of ours was determined we would not change her preference for her supermarket purchased, NZ made favourite chocolate. After tasting a selection of bars from Pralus (including a 100%), she spat out the NZ product when asked to compare, saying it now tasted like plastic and berated us for destroying her favourite thing.

For those who want to become chocolate snobs, help is here.  The International Chocolate Awards are in their 7th year and have become well-known arbiters of good chocolate. They run regional and international awards each year. NZ made bars have already had some favourable reviews and it would be great to see NZ chocolate feature in the awards some day. Photos all taken on phone.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foodie tour starts in Vanuatu

A block of land north of Port Vila with a multitude of food-producing plants is now open to visitors. The brainchild of Jimmy Nipo and his wife Ledcha Nanuman, Fansa Farm Foodie Tours has been designed to showcase the best in Vanuatu’s food while also wanting to demonstrate new crop varieties and farming practices better suited to Vanuatu’s shifting weather patterns. Crops you will see on the foodie tour include pineapple, mango, pawpaw, taro, drought resistant yam,kava, corn, tamarind, banana, breadfruit, sugarcane, pepper, chilli, kumala (kumara), coconut, nangai (an almond like nut ) and manioc (cassava) which Jimmy says represents continuity: “Manioc is always there, it just keep going, it feeds us and provides our energy throughout the seasons,” he says.

Jimmy Nipo and Ledcha Nanuman come from the island of Tanna in the south of Vanuatu. Jimmy says Fansa Farm takes its name from the fansa bird (similar to a fantail ) which holds special significance as a leader in Tanna Island culture.

“The fansa leads all other birds to food. It is active, smart and creative, and never stops moving,” says Jimmy. “Fansa also means safe, and for us Ni-Vanuatu, that relates to food security which is very important for our survival” he says.

Visitors to Fansa Farm can choose between three tours ranging from two to four hours on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The Food Path provides a guided tour through the farm with refreshments and produce on offer along the way.

Food Path and ‘aelan-style’ Cooking provides a guided tour through the farm with refreshments and produce along the way followed by an opportunity to cook local dishes ‘aelan style’.

The third tour, Food Path, Port Vila Market and brunch at Lapita Cafe is offered in partnership with Port Vila’s Lapita Café, well known suppliers of high quality aelan cuisine ( the Lapita Cafe food at the opening was delicious ). The tour includes a guided tour of the farm, then a tour of the Port Vila central market, followed by brunch.

Bookings are essential. Visit www.fansafoodietours.weebly.com

 

 

 

Vanilla Pioneer departs Vanuatu

After 28 yrs of Vanilla production in Vanuatu Pierro Bianchessi has left for Italy, his homeland. An organic chemist, Bianchessi arrived in Vanuatu in 1987 and found the perfect climate for growing vanilla. He established Venui Vanilla and by 1991 demand had increased beyond what he could produce on his own land. Growers were contracted and trained from northern islands in Vanuatu, processing 2000-2500 tons of vanilla each year at the peak of production. Certified organic from 1997, Pierro marketed the vanilla himself at food shows in Europe, NZ , Australia and New Caledonia. Venui Vanilla quickly became Vanuatu’s premiere artisan food producer.

Vanilla needs a dry coolish winter of 7-8 weeks for successful pollination and although this was possible initially the amount of vanilla being processed has now dropped to 2-300kg per year. Bianchessi states this is a direct result of climate change.

Venui Vanilla now also produces peppercorns, turmeric, chillies and ginger and to reflect this has been rebranded Venui Vanilla - Spices of Vanuatu. Venui would have to process five times the amount of peppercorns to replace the value of the declining vanilla crop according to Bianchessi.

New Zealand has strong links with Venui. An Auckland based graphic designer created the cool looking soft packaging and New Zealand’s BioGro Organic Certification was achieved in 2013. This certification also covers the 200 small farmers who supply the company.

A new manager has been found and the company has been sold to LCM, a very established grocery business based in Luganville. A new cold pressed centrifugal coconut oil processing facility is being built as a result of the new investment.

Although departing, Bianchessi was optimistic the organic ethos of Venui will continue. He believes Vanuatu has a good future with food production as it remains naturally organic, the last of the Pacific Islands to be in this state.

 

Sorting Ginger

Ginger drying

Chilies and tamarind drying

Venui Vanilla in Vanuatu

Boxes of spices ready to export

Venui Vanilla retail outlet

Sorting Vanilla in Vanuatu

Sacks chillies in Vanuatu

Vanilla being stored in Vanuatu

Sacks of turmeric in Vanuatu

Pierro Bianchessi with bags of peppercorns in Vanuatu

Organic chilies drying in Vanuatu

Chilies drying in Vanuatu

Unloading trays of chilies to dry in Vanuatu

Portrait of Pierro Bianchessi in Vanuatu

Portrait of Pierro Bianchessi founder of Venui Vanilla

Quince from tree to plate | Murray Lloyd Photography

Quince on tree

Quince tree in Havelock North.

Sign avertising Quince for sale in Hawkes Bay.

Below are organic quince growing at Epicurian Supplies

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Organic quince growing at Epicurian Supplies in Hastings, Hawkes Bay.

also seen at Epicurian Supplies

Organic quince in box at Epicurian Supplies in Hastings, Hawkes Bay.

the ones below were photographed for Ruth Pretty's jars of Quince Jelly

Quince photo for Ruth Pretty Catering.

Product photo of Ruth Pretty Quince Jelly.

Quince Tart Tartin at Depot Restaurant in Auckland, delicious.

Quince Tart Tatin at Depot Restaurant in Auckland

Food "captured" in New Yorker Mag | Murray Lloyd Photography

I couldn't work out if this was an ironic take on the normal "captured" moment used in camera advertisments (eg Usain Bolt or fast-moving wildlife ) or it just implies New Yorker Magazine readers love organic food. The guy in the ad is a New York photographer who photographs food among other things.

New yorker advert for Fuji X E1 camera showing a food photo by Robert K Jacobs.

Boutique dairy milking in NZ | Murray Lloyd Photography

My image of life as a dairy cow reached new highs when I first sighted this delightful milking shed bathed in the early morning light. Owned by an American couple who left the US when George Bush was elected in 2000, the milking operation near Dunedin numbers between 16 and 20 cows.

With a backdrop of faded washing hanging from the roof of the milking shed, a yodel-like call brought the cows running. Once inside the milking shed each cow knew exactly which bay to head for. One cow, who left the property for two years, still remembers which bay was originally hers.

The cows are milked using a bucket system. Before the milk is taken from the cow each one receives individual grooming (to remove muddy patches) and the udders are hand washed with a cleansing solution.

The milk – straight from the cow - has less than 10% of the maximum allowed limit of bacteria found in milk (pasteurised and homogenised) sitting in your supermarket fridges.

With National Radio broadcasting, and a breakfast of local Harraway oats mixed and sweetly scented lucerne the cows looked very contented. As did the customers who could take away milk, cream, ghee, cottage cheese, quark or even a mango flavoured lassi.

The Best Coffee in Wellington | Murray Lloyd Photography

At home I have put many beans through the grinder, into the stovetop and drunk usually as a long black with flat milk (I am drinking one as I write this). I have had several bean favourites but these were blown away when I tried the Italia blend from Tony Gibbs recently.

Gibbston Coffee Interior

Although his tiny café on the Terrace has been operating since 2001 it has been unnoticed up until now. Maybe this is because the sign overhead remains blank and the café doesn't even have a name.

The lack of a sign was no hindrance to the flow of people coming in and out of the cafe while I was photographing, most of them exchanging greetings with Gibbs while he roasted beans. The beans are roasted in a fully restored Aug Olsen originating in Denmark.

Gibbston Coffee

Gibbston Coffee

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Gibbston Coffee

Gibbs has been roasting beans since 1987 when he was trained by George Kepper, an Australian based Russian who consulted several of the big roast companies in Sydney from time to time to correct blends and adjust roasts that were not quite right. The Italia blend was perfected by Gibbs on visits to Kepper in Sydney and has not been altered since 1987.

Of the beans Gibbs purchases for his café he rates the Columbian Medellin Supremo as the best (and the most expensive), supplied by John Burton, New Zealand’s primary importer of beans for smaller roasters.

Gibbston Coffee

Gibbston Coffee

Gibbs’s blends, aside from the Italia include TG Pearl, Indian Mysore (named after the Southern Indian province where it comes from) and Brazilian which is made especially for the drinkers at Taste Café in Kelburn, one of two cafes Gibbs supplies (the other is Salvation in Newtown).

Gibbston Coffee

Gibbston Coffee

Gibbston Coffee

Gibbston Coffee

Located in Wellington’s corporate heartland (the PM drops in for coffee and the Treasury is right opposite) it is great to see someone putting taste firmly on the bottom line.

Stop Press: The cafe has been renamed Old George (after the Russian who taught Tony Gibbs how to roast the beans) and is still producing the best coffee in Wellington

Old George coffee beans with new packaging in Wellington.

The Good Oil on Bali | Murray Lloyd Photography

“Please bring organic olive oil and flour if possible…” Having booked numerous accommodation suppliers over the years, I was impressed by this unique approach from Swasti Eco Cottages in Bali. After leaving Common Sense Organics with the Bali bound bottle of Moutere Grove Organic Olive Oil I looked forward to handing it over to the Swasti kitchen once we got to Ubud.

Arriving at Swasti we quickly made a tour of the organic garden. The range of produce included turmeric, mulberries, egg plants, tomatoes and some Avatar lookalike goats.

Entrance to Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud, Bali

Organic tumeric at Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud, Bali

Organic Anglo-Nubian dairy goat at Swasti Eco Cottages in Bali

After a couple of days exploring the wonderful Ubud surrounds I finally got to photograph Pa Putra (one of the Swasti kitchen staff) holding the Moutere Grove oil in the dining room. In return for the organic oil we received two free desserts.

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Pa Putra from Swasti Eco Cottages holding Moutere organic olive oil from New Zealand

Other highlights were the squirrels darting around the treetops, the frangipani flowers draped around our room, frogs croaking through the night, very friendly staff and the abundance of fresh produce on which we dined.

Interior of Rama Room at Swasti Eco Cottage in Ubud, Bali

Breakfast at Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud,Bali

However it will have to be the next visit for the 3 in 1 chocolate massage, black rice icecream or a special drink of organic raw cacao, banana and cashew milk.

Special drinks blackboard at Swasti Eco Cottages in Ubud, Bali

Although it was left behind the Moutere Grove Organic olive oil will feel right at home.

Organic fruit at Te Mata | Murray Lloyd Photography

Te Mata Wine, Te Mata Cheese, Te Mata Peak may all be names recognizable to Hawkes Bay visitors and residents but Te Mata Orchard less so. Only a stone's throw from the Te Mata Cheesery, the orchard is an organic operation growing  apples, pears and plums. Ian Kiddle, who has hosted me on a couple of occasions exports produce and also supplies the Pure Fresh brand seen in New Zealand supermarkets. The domestic organic market in NZ is worth about $350 million (at last count) and more than half that value is exported. Evidence is mounting the world wants sustainable produce.



Epicurus rediscovered

Epicurus (341–270 B.C.) founded one of the major philosophies of ancient Greece, helping to lay the intellectual foundations for modern science and for secular individualism. Many aspects of his thought are still highly relevant some twenty-three centuries after they were first taught in his school in Athens, called “the Garden.” Epicurus primarily promoted the pleasures of the mind, friendship and contentment - pleasure without pain.  However recent use of the word epicurean links this philosophy to a life frequented by bouts of hedonism   especially food consumption and sex - this pleasure is said to derive from pain i.e  hunger and desire

Epicurean Supplies , a garden in Hawkes Bay,  spans the divide between the ancient philosophy and the recent interpretation linked to food. Indeed perhaps Clyde Potter (owner of Epicurean Supplies) is the modern Epicurus.

Clyde's  disciples in this case are a small permanent staff and a varying band of itinerent woofers. I  imagine anyone who has eaten his organic micro salads, fresh herbs and heirloom vegetables can attest to this. Clyde's jewel- like produce not only provides good health but allows your eyes to feast as well,  bringing a sense of pleasure completely unaccompanied by pain. It is with sad news I learnt of Clyde’s passing recently.

Clyde Potter

different tomatoes being held by person
organic scallopine growing
Yellow organic squash growing
orgainic peppers growing
Organic capsicum



True Earth Organics in NZ | Murray Lloyd Photography

You may have seen the Lawsons True Earth label around town, especially as they distribute carrots, onions, blueberries and pumpkin all over the North Island in plentiful quantity. Situated in Hawkes Bay next to the Gimblett gravels (as branded by the wine industry)  Scott and Vicki have farmed the 100 hectare block organically since 1992.

It seems they have brought organic fresh veges and blueberries very much into the mainstream as the produce can not only be found in the organic supply chain but also in foodie destinations (Moore Wilsons etc) and regular supermarkets.

However you won't see their organic potatoes as the pest psyllid has made it uneconomic to grow them unless dealt with in a non organic way. This is a big loss but really lives up to the the name True Earth.

sorting blueberries

Organic blueberies in factory

Blueberries in factory

Pumpkins being loaded into crate

Pickers with pumpkins

pumpkins being loaded onto a truck

Pumpkins growing in sunshine

Pumpkins growing

Organic carrots on farm

picking organic carrots

Picking organic carrots

loading the carrots onto a trailer

sorting organic onions

organic onions in bags

organic onions being bagged

picking blueberries

picking organic blueberries

Close up photo of organic blueberries growing

Organic blueberries growing

True Earth Organics sign

True earth organics



Hawkes Bay Organic Butcher | Murray Lloyd Photography

Located in Hastings, the Organic Farm Butchery processes and distributes beef and lamb from Ti Kouka an organic farm near Waimarama (they also have some pigs). After photographing at the farm last year  I thought it would would good to see another side of the operation.  The mainstream media have published large quantities of material about farmers markets, local produce and consumers wanting to know where their food comes from.

However thinking more about images of beef carcasses and slabs of meat I wonder if the public is ready for an even closer viewpoint.  While I was photographing, numerous boxes of organic meat went out the door. Nothing was wasted as the bones seen in the trolley were destined for the beef stock at a gourmet food supplier.

Organic butcher

Butchering an organic carcase

Exterior of the organic butchery in Hastings




Hohepa Biodynamic Cheese in NZ | Murray Lloyd Photography

Multiple awards in the Cuisine cheese awards establish Hohepa as one of New Zealand's preeminent boutique cheese making operations. The staff at Hohepa could not have been more generous with their time while I photographed the cheese making operation in Hawkes Bay. I particularly like the vintage Danbo and the fenugreek flavoured cheese.

Bio dynamic cow

Bio dynamic cattle

Bio dynamic jersey cow

Mother cow licking new born calf

Calf at Hohepa

Milking at Hohepa

Bio dynamic cattle being milked

Milker at Hohepa Cheese

Milk at Hohepa Cheese

Packaging the cheese

Cutting cheese

Cumin flavoured cheese

Cutting mature cheese

Inacio Guimares the Cheese maker at Hohepa

Hohepa cheese